The Valdichiana region of Tuscany lies south of Arezzo, following the path of the Chiana river as it heads toward Montepulciano. This area of rolling hills and plains encompasses several wine growing regions, including the Chianti Colli Aretini region west of Arezzo and part of the Chianti Colli Senesi region around Montepulciano. Maureen and I stayed in 1996 and again in 1999 in the charming medieval town of Lucignano, located halfway between Arezzo and Montepulciano. Lucignano is less than 30 minutes away from Montepulciano, one of the great wine towns of Tuscany (see our Montepulciano guide).
Lucignano is conveniently situated for exploring Tuscany, located near the A1 Autostrade connecting Florence and Rome, and near Route 326 connecting Siena and the A1 Autostrade. From Lucignano it is 40 minutes to Siena and the Chianti Classico region, 1 hour to Florence, 2 hours to Pisa, and 4 hours to the Leonardo da Vinci international airport in Rome.
Five minutes south of Lucignano, heading east toward Sinalunga on Route 326, is the cooperative winery for the surrounding growers. It is a large modern facility with no character, but don't be put off by the stainless steel tanks and the gasoline pumps that dispense 'vino sfuso', or open wine meant for immediate consumption, by the liter. The Cantina makes excellent wine and the prices are very reasonable.
In addition to open wine sold in 3 liter glass bottles with screw tops, the Cantina's wines are also sold in corked bottles. There were three wines available for free tasting and purchase:
The Cantina is open from 8 a.m. - 12 noon and from 3-7 p.m. every day except Sunday and Monday.
CANTINA VITICOLTORI SENESI ARETINI, LOCALITA OSTERIA N. 54/A, SINALUNGA
The town of Lucignano has several moderately priced restaurants serving typical Tuscan food. Our favorite is La Tavernetta, run by the Salvini family, located steps away from Il Cassero where we stayed. There is outdoor seating in a pleasant garden setting as well as an elegant dining room.
We dined twice at La Tavernetta in 1996 and each time enjoyed the roasted meats and fresh pasta, including several pastas prepared with truffles. Our meals were accompanied by Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG from the Fattoria Del Cerro.
On our return trip in 1999, we again dined twice at La Tavernetta and both times enjoyed fabulous meals. For our first dinner, we enjoyed a primi piatti of pasta with truffles and a main course of roasted pork and lamb. We also enjoyed again the Vino Nobile from Fattoria Del Cerro.
After watching other diners enjoy La Tavernetta's special seafood offerings, for our second dinner we decided to try the seafood. Our first course was linguini in clam sauce, with an abundance of succulent baby clams in their shells. For our main course we enjoyed a delicious whole roasted fish. Suffice to say, it was probably our best meal of the whole trip!
We highly recommend staying at Residence Il Cassero in Lucignano, owned by Luigi and Antonella Moriani. The Morianis have six lovely apartments for rent in their villa next to a 14th century tower. On our second visit in 1999 we enjoyed staying in the Tower Room, which has terrific views of the countryside and the tower.
On our first visit in 1996, we climbed to the top of the tower (a 250 step climb), where we enjoyed the panoramic view of Lucignano, which is a medieval walled city laid out in a series of four concentric rings. The tower overlooks the large Collegiata, or cathedral, built in 1594.
Il Cassero is located just steps outside the walls of the town, and one of the things we liked most was the close proximity to numerous restaurants and cafes in town. We also had access to the pool at the nearby Hotel del Toto (make sure to ask at the desk). In addition, Luigi is a very gracious host and is eager to give tips on restaurants and sites to see. He also turned us on to the Cantina Viticoltori, which is where he buys his wine.
One week (or longer) rentals of one- or two-bedroom apartments can be arranged by contacting Luigi directly. Rates are quite reasonable. If you speak to Luigi, tell him that Maureen and Bernie say ciao!
VIA ROSINI 7, LUCIGNANO
